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Asher's Guide to Sniper RT
Now, I haven't spent as much time on this as I have on the soldier and heavy gunner role-type, but I do spend time with the best of the best on a daily basis. I'm going to proceed with this list in the same fashion as what I used with the soldier listings.
HOUND Parts
Recommended parts for the sniper role-type are much shorter than what was used for the soldier due to its highly evolved nature.
Mobility Base [Chassis]
You really only have one of two choices here. You are going to find yourself locked into either the
or the RJ-Naqa
. The MSK-RJ401
though light, are lacking in the necessary recoil absorption. The Tarakian legs once again suffer from the "boot" that makes them quite easily targeted. Fashion is not applicable within the current world of chromehounds. Morskovian lighter legs and it's campaign twin are lacking somewhat in the load and recoil absorption department area of the game and are best just passed up for the . Treads are just too plain twitchy with the torsional rotation values which make it extremely difficult to track targets. Quads [multi], though extremely stable, are easily destroyed due to higher evolution in builds and latest knowledge with shot grouping and firing orders. The less of a profile you present the higher your survivability. If you must use quads then I would advise the and as they present the least leg to shoot at with a reasonable (for quads) maximum speed. Canopies [Cockpits]:
Once again, fairly limited options here. Top sniper canopies are comprised of the
, , and the . Your choice, light and small, or heavy and durable. Anything else though perfectly applicable, is just not commonly seen on the battlefield due to certain complications that are within the field that we call "balance". Generators:
, and are all extremely popular within the role-type due to decent power output, durability and they just plain fit well on most of the builds. You are welcome to experiment, but don't come crying to me when you get killed. Light Arms:
Sub-Sniper Rifles: Only Sal Kar has these weapons (
and ). The current day builds and emphasis on splash damage limit these weapons to assault rifle scopes only. They might have been valuable during the first few wars of the game, but for a true sniper in the modern era, it's the equivalent of fighting a nuclear war with a spitball gun. Useful on scouts for a periscope or on a scout/sniper hybrid for annoyance battle. Sniper Rifles: All nations have these weapons available, but sadly these are relegated to the same circumstances as the above post. Considered useful only for sniper scouts. Kickback is too strong to be used as an AR scope. Damage is too limiting for the battlefield's current builds.
Sniper Cannons: [author's note: ammunition on these should always be the most damaging CE variety. When asked for what ammo type you want to use, just press up on the d-pad once. The KE rounds will get your more distance and are supposedly more damaging, but lose damage with increased distance. The only time that KE rounds are valid is during an attempt to snipe a base this takes a long time to do, but yes it can be done.]
: Tarakian and extremely devastating with the most damaging shell in the game. Extremely limited ammunition (3 base and 8 expanded) and long reload times (15 seconds) help to keep this awesome sniper cannon in check. Used in clusters of 4, it is possible to drop a hound in two salvos if all 4 shells connect. Only the most skilled snipers should attempt to use this sniper cannon. M36SC Sabre
, , : These are all pretty much the same Tarakian sniper cannon, statistics have been juggled a bit so they are easy to select based off of personal preference and play style. Decent reload time, respectable range, respectable damage, but lacking in muzzle velocity. Practice with these will ensure that you have become a certified master in leading your target. RFZ-WSC-1
: Sal Kari Sniper cannons not seen much. Primary reason is due to limited ammunition, limited range, and limited damage. These are good for picking away at a target as these have almost no recoil to speak of. Consider this the scalpel of the sniper role-type and you will see that it does have a reason for being here.
: Original Morskovian sniper cannon, these were decent for a while. They are good if you need to save a few pounds but still want to put the hurting on someone.
: The sniper cannon of choice. Originally an experimental part, these are now readily available in the shop and have extremely serious power, 25 shots on maximum ammo, 19 shots by default. They are easily grouped into shot clusters and are seen on most sniper builds. Sensors
Thermals: A must have on the current sniper, it allows you to see through smoke on the battlefield either from explosions or intentional smoke mortars or through the combat haze that appears at approximately 800 meters allowing that much more ease in target acquisition. Go for the highest range with the
and you'll be fine. Watch for the silhouette of the desired target and you will be able to differentiate them from the ambient air temperature. Spacers
should be your only necessary choice. The de-facto trio (which will be gone into in-depth later on here) all utilize this one as a leverage point to keep things in check. System Devices
The recommended sets are
mobility chip; weapons chip; stability chip; With the current state of chromehounds post the most recent patch, there is no need to run anything other than this. Aim stability is negligible in the current status quo and with the
and having been so popular as of late, there's no reason to run anything other than an chip. Therefore, to maximize speed, pop in the . Sniper Builds
Courtesy of this collection goes to ed111 of 7th division -- he summarized it best with Sniper build and information and there was no way that I could up the quality of what he did with his summarization, so it is reproduced here:
Gator Sniper:
Sleek, fast, deadly at medium-long range and attracts the chicks. This sniper is the sniper of choice for the sniper on the move. Its quad SC200 packs for a powerful punch with enough ammo to get at least 2 kills a game. It is a very useful sniper as it is primarily used to support its friendlies and cover them for an approach. The weakness of this hound is its HUG side profile. Due to the placement of the guns where they are the hound's side profile is the softest part of the hound. If not played right the survivability of this hound drops tremendously. Another weakness is the fact that the guns are practically dragging along the ground. You need to poke over the hill for a decent shot and that leaves you exposed.
Primary users:
-Havoc Unit/Taskforce6-26
-7th Division
-ANNIHILATION
-Kromelegion
-Other Various squads.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/elitekiller/Qsc200.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o152/sneake0042/Qs800.jpgTrigger:
Big, strong, powerful almost the exact oposite of the Gator, this hound is an excellent one versus one sniper as its dual SC200 and quad Sabres makes for long term engagement. The Heat damage of this hound is smaller than most because of the hounds cannons firing at different speeds. The accuracy of this hound is somewhat better then the gator because of its RJ-401 leg stability. The bad part is, it is a huge target because of its protected by armour plating pit and gun placement.
Primary users:
-Havoc Unit/Taskforce6-26
-Kromelegion
-7th Divisionhttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j25/ashersgcorps/Hounds/11.jpg
Sabretooth:
A hound whose profile is average and length makes it even scarier than it already is. This hound packs a devastating blow to any enemies it meets with its hexa-supply of sabres. Primarily used to gain the one-up advantage earlier on in the game, it does provide excellent cover fire and support fire. The 6 sabres are fired 3 x 3 for increased accuracy. The ammo type is mixed to provide even more accuracy. The 6 sabres if fired one after the other.(Fire;Bumper;Fire) Will inflict even more damage than the durability/ce defense ratio states it should do. Used at extreme distances is what this hound favors, anything less than 1000 meters will drastically decrease its effectability.The partially exposed pit and larger legs makes it a somewhat more easily targeted hound than other snipers, but because it remains so far from battle it makes little difference. It was originally made in War 5 with SPC-HIMMIS.
Primary users:
-7th Division
-8th Division
-ex-9th Division
-10th Division
-Kromelegion
-THOMMEE GUN (Malicious Wind got owned by their sniper who was running a sabretooth)
-ANNIHILATIONhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/elitekiller/pmh_tws.jpg
The picture is an older picture not the most recent but one of the first. Cleanest picture I could find.
Snake Fang:
Based on the Sabre tooth, but my version of it hence the name! 5 SC200's so plenty of ammo for the sniper noob, but still alot of power. Using Burns I get a good rate of speed, a fairly low profile and it is equipped with thermals and radiator, the most exposed side has a shield to boost the defence. Fires 3 then 2 salvos.
Primary users:
-Cobra N
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v209/elitekiller/CHsnakefang.jpg
Sniper Tips
Those seeking skill based tips on how to play as a sniper would best be referred to CloaknDagger's Sniping tips reproduced below:
Before the actual tips, let's discuss construction of your HOUND. You always want to have at least three sniper cannons linked per shot. This can be accomplished with deadly accuracy at maximum range by using the best stability chip (Baukus - 5 slots), and by properly testing the firing order of your cannons in the Trial Sortie. Different order of fire will have wildly different results at maximum range, so test thoroughly until you have a tight group at 1000+ range.
With six sniper cannons, you can have two sets of three, and use weapons group #3 with two sniper cannons, one each from slots #1 and #2. With this setup, you can fire group #3 first (2 shots), then switch to group #1 (2 shots), then group #2 (2 shots). This strategy is used to hit a strafing target at a distance.
As a general rule, you always want to travel above 150 speed, so you can avoid DD volleys at a distance, and move to hills and other vantage points quickly. this narrows your choices down to a few specific legs. I prefer the RJ-Naqa legs (Sal Kar chicken ones) as they have the second-best stability of all and will grant you 165+ speed.
Cloak's top 13 tips countdown:
13) Sniping at a distance can seem cumbersome with apparent lag and fidgety movement from your opponents. A great way to hit a lagging distant opponent is to treat him like he wasn't lagging in the first place. Don't shoot into the lagged HOUND, shoot like you would normally: In front of him. Take your best estimate to where he would be in a few seconds if he wasn't lagging, and take the shot. You'll be surprised how many times you nail him right where you wanted to.
12) Average human reaction time is one full second. If you have six sniper cannons in two sets of three, and your target is unaware of you and holding still, you can hit him with all six. Fire the first volley, then immediately fire the second volley. If done correctly, both volleys will still be in the air before the first one hits. Once the first one hits, the second one is only a half a second behind, far too quick for a surprised enemy to see, let alone dodge.
11) Two seconds. That's the average amount of time it takes for the best CE rounds to travel it's maximum range. When you're leading a moving target across the map, shoot two seconds in front of him.
10) The larger the legs are on an enemy, the greater the priority that target becomes. First, you can reliably hit them from further away. Second, they have higher durability, so you want to soften them up. Third, large legs are slower, so when you shoot them out their disadvantage is compounded. Always remember that damage transfers directly from legs to the 'pit when blown out. In order: Treads, Heavy Morskoj Reverse Bipeds, Medium Tarakian Reverse Bipeds, then everything else.
9) Concerning Quads - Don't worry about their legs. Instead, concentrate on their clustered weapons/'pit area for a quicker kill. Their legs will never carry them anywhere close to you.
8) Learn to run backwards and snipe. Creating distance between you and an incoming enemy means the difference between killing and dying. Never forget to run backwards when being chased down.
7) It's OK to give up the hill advantage. Don't be afraid to allow an aggressor the top of your hill if it means you can create distance. For instance, if you're on top of a hill sniping into a target, and he turns his attention to you, be prepared to allow him your hill. Drill as many shots as you can into him, but once he starts ascending the base of your hill to get to you, start backing out. Once he gets to the top, you should be at the bottom on the other side, running backwards at full speed while keeping a constant crosshair on him. Stubbornly staying atop your hill will only allow your opponent to close the distance and kill you.
6) Creating distance - There are two major ways to do this. The most common way, which I urge you to prioritize, is taking out your opponents legs. Most soldiers run at speeds between 160-200. With your own 150+ speed, taking out their legs means you will be able to create an infinite amount of distance between you and your target to get a comfortable shot. 2-3 well-placed volleys will cripple most legs, and from there you can create distance and set up the killing blow. The second best way to create distance is by letting your opponent fire. Against cannons especially, to continue to threaten you, they have to constantly keep firing. Run backwards at full speed, and turn only to dodge volleys. As long as they keep firing, you keep creating distance. Don't stop to fire your own shot until you're at a comfortable gap, ans always aim for their legs first.
5) Sniping dodgers is easier than you think. Most people dodge in an "S" pattern. Right, left, right, left. The trick to hitting them is anticipating a turn inwards. Once the target veers left, keep your aim slightly to his right. Once you see him begin to turn right again, fire. He will walk right into your volley. A great benefit to fighting an "S dodger" is that you can create infinite distance while he is dodging. While you're running backwards in a straight line, he is swerving right and left, losing ground each time. Create enough distance this way, and he might stop dodging all together. This is when you can plant a key shot in his legs and ensure an easy kill.
4) You are a tree. At least, that's what you should look like to someone scanning the horizon. After planting a volley into the side of an enemy from 750+ meters away, HOLD STILL. Nothing is more comical than watching the guy you just gutted spin frantically from right to left trying to decipher movement on the horizon. If you move, you blow valuable cover. It doesn't matter if you're bright pink and shaped like a boulder, it is almost impossible to see a still target at a distance. Use this to your advantage. If you absolutely have to move, wait for your target's head to turn.
3) The Pause is your best friend. You know the one I'm talking about. When that Double-Double or cannon mech fires, he holds still for a critical two seconds. Funny thing is, that's the time it takes for you to make a shot from maximum range. Anticipate the shot on your target... really anticipate it. Right when you see the flash of his guns, bull the trigger. Doesn't matter how much they're lagging at 1000 meters, you're still going to hit him.
2) It's inevitable, you're going to end up in a close-quarters fight eventually. here's how to maximize your chances of survival. Always use your mini-camera in the top corner to aim. While zoomed out, you rotate at a much faster rate than you would if you were zoomed in. this will allow you to keep up with the movements of close targets. Your goal in this situation is the same as every other situation: Shoot the legs to create distance. Against cannon hounds, never, ever fire first. Wait for The Pause from his shot, dodge, and fire. If you commit to a shot first, you pause for your opponent instead of him pausing for you. Again, wait for him to commit to a shot, then fire your own, right at his legs. If you survive long enough to take out his legs, create distance and finish him off. He will try frantically to sneak in that last cannon shot when he knows he's stuck. Just stay calm, dodge his shots, and realize that you can take your time to create enough distance for the killing blow.
And, Cloak's #1 sniping tip!
1) Always aim for a Double-Double's cannons. Always. The golden rule in Chrome Hounds is that damage transfers. When you see a Double-Double pause for a shot, shoot everything you have at his cannons. 2-3 volleys will take it out, and the Golden Rule means his cannon has now become a huge 'pit. Suddenly, that Double-Double isn't so menacing with half the shots and a huge "hit me" sign on his gun. In fact, I love this tactic so much, I usually take out both cannons, just to neuter him completely. If this happens, he basically counts as dead, and you can ignore him altogether.
This announcement has been brought to you by CloaknDagger. Remember, to snipe like a pro, snipe like CloaknDagger! He's always watching you!
My apologies for quoting so many people, but as previously stated, I haven't much experience with the sniping field and have just begun my recent journey towards sniper valor. I hope this helps and obviously, should anyone have anything else that they feel would be pertinent, please feel free to add it.
References:
Author: AsherCrestfalen - Kromelegion Web Site;
Originally Hosted: Asher's Guides on the Microsoft Xbox forums;
Additional Guides: Sniper build and information by ed111 (quoted above);
Additional Guides: CloaknDagger's Sniping tips by CloaknDagger (quoted above);
Additional Forums: Sniper on the Sega Chromehounds site;
